Australian Jack Robinson nearly drowned as surfers battled frightening seas in the Olympic event at the famed Teahupo’o break in Tahiti.
Robinson, 26, set up an all-Australian quarter-final with Ethan Ewing on a terrifying day of action.
He was held under water by two waves in big swells and his coach Matt Bemrose said his athlete nearly drowned from a lack of air.
He was fighting for breath when he emerged in a lagoon hundreds of metres away from the wave that dragged him under.
His rival John John Florence was dragged to shore soon after. The pair headed back into the line up to continue their dangerous battle.
The West Australian scored 13.94 to beat Florence (9.07) on Tuesday (AEST).
Jack Robinson of Team Australia looks on after winning his heat during round three of surfing on day three of the Olympic Games Paris 2024 on July 29, 2024 in Teahupo’o, French Polynesia. (Photo by Ed Sloane/Getty Images)
“I got dragged over the bottom and almost had a two wave hold under,” Robinson said.
“I didn’t get much air. There wasn’t much time. I got reminded of so many guys who have had so many bad wipe-outs here.
“I have had some pretty bad (wipe-outs) but in a contest it’s different. You have way more adrenaline and there is way more on the line.
“(Paddling back out was) a test of physicality and spirit.
“Every other sport is in a court or a stadium.
“We are in an ocean. It is the biggest, most powerful source of life we have on this planet.
“The waves are so powerful. It doesn’t relate to any other sport. Maybe an avalanche coming down on your head on a mountain. Maybe it’s similar to that. It’s so dangerous and so crazy.”
Brazil’s three-time world champion Gabriel Medina said surfing at Teahupo’o was the most dangerous event the Olympics had hosted.
“It’s really dangerous out there. It is super hollow (inside the wave),” Medina said.
“(I’m lucky) I didn’t hit the reef on the one I fell (off). There is coral and when the waves are like this it’s really shallow. There are some solid waves out there.”
Florence was also rattled: “It’s really dangerous. (It) was a scary day out there. There is so much power in it.”
Ewing beat Japan’s Connor O’Leary 14.17 to 11, making a return after breaking his back at the same place a year ago.
“I was definitely scared out there. That was way bigger than the day I got hurt,” Ewing said.
“It will be cool (to face Robinson). He is definitely pushing the limits and one of the best guys out here. That is where I want to be and it will be exciting for sure. Either way an Aussie will get into the next round.”
Conditions worsened after the completion of the men’s third round, forcing organisers to suspend competition before the women’s third round could begin.
